March 28, 2013

Thurlows: The Muslin

After much procrastinating, I've finally got these bad boys assembled, and aside from my own stupidity, I had very few problems.  I left off all the extraneous bits, pockets and the like.  My biggest  problem was that I assembled the back seam late at night, and I missed the part where you don't sew that seam all the way up.   I did so, and immediately got depressed when there was the usual huge flap of fabric between my rear and my waist.  Luckily, I caught my mistake the next morning, and can I say that the idea of doing the two halves of the waistband separately, giving you the freedom to adjust the CB seam as needed, is genius.  I mean, I'm sure you could that with any pants with a CB seam, but the fact that she specifically allowed for it means she really understands those of us with...ahem...ample rears.

Even with the pear shaped pattern drafting, the standard seam back there looks like this on me:

Lots of extra fabric at the waist (and my BF playing WoW in the background).  This is pretty much how regular pants fit me most of the time.  But my number one goal for these pants is to make them fit well enough to not have to wear a belt.  I can overlook just about any other fitting weirdness, but I want them to fit my actual waist; otherwise, what's the point of making them myself?

But because of Tasia's foresight, I was able to take them from that fit to this:

See! No back gap!  It's a little bubbled because of all the seaming and re-seaming, but this just made me want to jump for joy.  Unfortunately, the fact that I made the back out of white fabric means a full back view will have to wait until the real pants get made.  Here's the seaming after I was done with it:

The pink line is the original seam line, the leftmost yellow stitching is my final fit.  I will probably just transfer
these stitching lines to my final copy, leaving all the extra fabric until I'm 100% sure I don't need it.

Other than the back, I didn't have any other significant fit issues.  There's a little bit of extra fabric in the front and in the waistband, but since I didn't use a double waistband and was using really thin fabric, I think I will lose most of it when I have a thicker base fabric and a waistband lining in there.  They are drafted really long, which has been noted by others, but I would always rather have them too long than too short. I could also use the tiniest bit of extra fabric in the inner thighs, but it should be something I can adjust within the seam allowance if I absolutely have to in the final pair.

I'm not sure if the side seams turning towards front at the bottom is an actual fitting issue, or if I was just standing on the bottom of the pants funny. I'll keep an eye out for it on the actual pair, but it's not worth making another muslin for.  So unless someone points out a glaring fitting error I'm not seeing, it's onwards and upwards to the actual khakis!  Finishing these got me really excited to make the real ones, but in general I procrastinate the worst at the cutting out step.  So we'll see.

It's not really sewing related, but the reason I was able to get these done is because of my newest obsession, HabitRPG.  It's a to-do list manager at the heart, but completing tasks progresses you along in the "game".  Your character gets weapons and pets as well as real-life rewards (like money to spend on fabric) when you do real-life tasks, but when you neglect things you should be doing, you lose health points.  It sounds a little silly, but considering I am both a chronic list maker and long time gamer, I am pretty much exactly the niche customer.  It's still early in development, and the servers like to crash a lot, but for me it's worth it.  Off to earn some more XP!  :)

1 comment:

  1. I'm not a pant expert but those look pretty good to me, pretty smooth at the back with the adjustment.